同盟快讯 | 同盟主席吕越教授携锦裳破界，赋时尚蜕变

2025年9月10日17时10分，“南方丝巢×吕越”时装发布会于 2025 中国国际时装周（秋季）在北京 798・751园区焕新亮相。作为本届时装周亮点大秀之一，这场发布会汇聚国际时尚目光，同时也是时装艺术国际同盟主席、知名时装艺术家吕越时隔28年再次回归中国国际时装周的T台，她带着以“巴马有桑”为核心的丝绸时尚叙事，重塑传统工艺与现代美学融合的典范。本次大秀，也正是时装艺术国际同盟 “推动时装艺术与产业深度融合、助力中国文化走向世界” 理念的又一次生动落地。

At 17:00 on September 10, 2025, the “SouthSilk × Aluna” fashion show made its debut at the 2025 China Fashion Week (Fall) in Beijing's 798・751 Art District. As one of the highlight shows of this fashion week, the event drew international attention while marking renowned fashion artist Lyu Yue (Aluna)'s return to the China International Fashion Week runway after 28 years. She presented a silk fashion narrative centered on “Mulberry in Bama”, redefining the combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern aesthetics.This practice is another vivid implementation of IFAN's concept of “promoting in-depth integration of fashion art and industry, and helping Chinese culture go global”.

发布会的核心亮点，源于吕越团队对“巴马有桑”主题的艺术化解构与创新表达。正如近年来时装艺术国际同盟在全球范围内推广时装艺术时所强调的核心方向——让不同国家、不同地域的文化特色，通过时装艺术这一载体实现跨文化对话与传播。因此在设计前期，吕越率团队深入河池巴马桑园采风，从喀斯特地貌的线条、壮锦传统纹样的几何结构中提取灵感，形成“自然符号 + 非遗基因” 的设计内核。呈现出“丝韵本真”“锦承新境”“蝶变未来”等系列作品，她创新性地将植物染、鱼子缬非遗技艺与现代剪裁结合，使基础款丝绸服饰兼具手工温度与当代审美。搭配不对称裙摆、解构式西装廓形，让千年壮锦脱离“传统服饰”的刻板印象，适配职场、社交等多元现代场景。

The core of the launch event stems from Lyu Yue (Aluna)'s artistic deconstruction and innovative expression of the theme “Mulberry in Bama”. During the design phase, Lyu Yue (Aluna) led her team on field trips to the mulberry gardens of Hechi Bama region. Drawing inspiration from the lines of karst topography and the geometric structures of traditional Zhuang brocade patterns, they formed a design core of “natural symbols + intangible cultural heritage genes.” This presented in series such as “Silk Essence,” “Brocade Reimagined,” and “Butterfly Transformation”. She innovatively combined plant dyeing and “Roe Xie”(a technique of printing and dyeing) with modern tailoring, infusing basic silk garments with warmth and contemporary aesthetics. Asymmetric hemlines and deconstructed suit silhouettes liberated millennia-old Zhuang brocade from the stereotype of “traditional attire”, making it suitable for diverse modern settings.

此外，吕越围绕其标志性的蝴蝶元素进一步探索“非遗与科技”的融合边界。将 3D 打印技术与织锦结合，部分融入壮锦“蝶纹”元素，打造出“虚实交织”的视觉效果。这不仅解决了传统织锦厚重、不易塑形的难题，更以“蝴蝶破茧”的意象，隐喻河池桑蚕产业从传统农业向现代时尚产业的转型，与其强调的“破界再生”的核心逻辑高度契合。值得一提的是，吕越在静态展陈领域的深耕成果，曾多次组织策划时装艺术国际展，成为同盟 多元呈现时装艺术魅力的重要组成部分，也为全球时装艺术从业者提供了静态与动态结合的创作思路。

Additionally, Lyu Yue (Aluna) further explored the boundaries of integrating intangible cultural heritage with technology through her signature butterfly motif. By integrating 3D printing technology with brocade weaving and partially incorporating elements of the Zhuang brocade “butterfly pattern”, she creates a visual effect where “reality and illusion intertwine”. This approach not only addresses the challenges of traditional brocade's thickness but also employs the imagery of “a butterfly emerging from its cocoon” as a metaphor for the transformation of Hechi's sericulture industry from traditional agriculture to a modern fashion industry. This aligns perfectly with her core concept of “breaking boundaries for rebirth.”It is worth mentioning that Lyu Yue (Aluna) 's achievements in the field of static exhibition have been exhibited many times in the international fashion art exhibitions hosted by IFAN, becoming an important part of IFAN's “diversified presentation of the charm of fashion art” and providing creative ideas combining static and dynamic for global fashion art practitioners.

此前多年，因受邀前往中央美术学院创办时装设计专业重拾教鞭，吕越从职业时装设计师的身份转身为高校教师，其作品的呈现形式也随之发生重要转变——从聚焦动态演绎的时装秀，全面转向更侧重工艺细节与文化表达的时装艺术静态展陈，在美术馆的展览空间里，以装置化、场景化的呈现方式，让观众近距离触摸传统工艺与现代设计的融合魅力，以及体会艺术赋能设计的深刻含义。也正因这一创作与呈现形式的转换，她暂别了时装周的舞台。而此次携“巴马有桑”主题回归，既是她对时装秀动态叙事的再度探索，更是将静态展览中沉淀的工艺深度与文化思考，重新注入 T 台语境的一次全新尝试。这其中，大秀后半程中模特们如同装置般的站立组合，有着吕越在时装艺术中耕耘多年的静态语言特征，无疑将系列时装的呈现定格在了一个极具冲击力的视觉瞬间。

For many years prior, Lyu Yue (Aluna) returned to teaching when invited to establish the Fashion Design department at the Central Academy of Fine Arts. She transitioned from professional fashion designer to university professor. This shift also brought a significant transformation in the presentation of her work—moving away from dynamic runway shows focused on movement and performance, and fully embracing static fashion art exhibitions that emphasize craftsmanship details and cultural expression. Within the exhibition spaces of galleries, she employs installation-based and scenographic presentations, allowing audiences to experience up close the captivating fusion of traditional craftsmanship and modern design, and to appreciate the profound meaning of art empowering design. This shift in creative approach and presentation led her to step away from the fashion week stage. Her return with the “Mulberry in Bama” collection marks not only a renewed exploration of dynamic narrative through fashion shows but also a bold experiment: reintroducing the profound craftsmanship and cultural reflections cultivated in static exhibitions back into the runway context. Notably, the latter part of the show featured models arranged in installation-like formations—a signature static language cultivated through Lyu Yue's years of dedication to fashion art. This composition undoubtedly captured the collection's presentation in a visually striking, unforgettable moment.

“南方丝巢”，作为广西嘉联丝绸股份有限公司旗下知名品牌，深耕河池巴马桑蚕资源，其100% 优质桑蚕长丝产品凭借抗菌防蛀、柔软回弹的特性，已获多项权威认证，今年4月刚刚获评由工业和信息化部办公厅颁发的首批“中国消费名品”。如今的广西嘉联，经过20多年的发展，已经成为丝绸全产业链标杆企业，是国家农业产业化重点龙头企业、广西扶贫龙头企业、国家民品定点生产企业。此次与吕越的携手，双方以“巴马有桑” 为主题，围绕“生态材质+ 艺术设计” 为双轴，将巴马绿色有机真丝与前沿时尚语言深度绑定，让“土地孕育的丝绸”站上国际时尚舞台。

“SouthSilk”, a renowned brand under Guangxi Jialian Silk Co., Ltd., has deeply cultivated the mulberry silkworm resources in Hechi Bama region. Its 100% premium mulberry silk products, renowned for their antibacterial, moth-resistant, soft, and resilient properties, have earned multiple authoritative certifications. In April this year, the brand was honored as one of the first “China Consumer Famous Brands” by the General Office of the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology. After over two decades of development, Guangxi Jialian has become a benchmark enterprise in the silk industry's full value chain. It holds designations as a National Key Leading Enterprise in Agricultural Industrialization, a Leading Poverty Alleviation Enterprise in Guangxi, and a National Designated Civilian Goods Manufacturer. This collaboration with Lyu Yue (Aluna) centers on the theme “Mulberry in Bama”, integrating “ecological materials + artistic design”. It deeply binds Bama's green organic silk with cutting-edge fashion language, elevating “silk nurtured by the land” onto the international fashion stage.

这场发布会不仅是一次时尚展示，更是吕越以艺术设计为桥梁，让巴马丝绸实现 “从精品材质到文化符号”升级的关键一步。通过艺术化转译，吕越让河池的土地基因、非遗技艺成为可穿戴的时尚语言，既坚守了绿色有机与文化传承的初心，更将推动 “巴马有桑”成为具有国际辨识度的丝绸 IP，为中国传统工艺的现代化发展提供了新范式。作为吕越教授的此次实践成果，也将成为时装艺术国际同盟未来开展国际学术交流、文化传播活动的重要范本，进一步向全球传递中国时装艺术的创新力量与文化深度，助力世界时尚界更好地理解中国传统与现代融合的独特魅力。

This launch event was more than a fashion showcase; it marked a pivotal step in Lyu Yue (Aluna)'s journey to elevate Bama silk from a premium material to a cultural symbol. Through artistic interpretation, Lyu Yue transforms the land's DNA and intangible cultural heritage techniques of Hechi into wearable fashion language. This approach upholds the original commitment to green organic practices and cultural preservation , as well as propels “Mulberry in Bama” into an internationally recognizable silk IP, offering a new paradigm for the modern development of traditional Chinese craftsmanship.As an important practice led by Lyu Yue (Aluna), the achievements of this launch event will also become important materials for IFAN to carry out international academic exchanges and cultural communication activities in the future, further conveying the innovative power and cultural depth of Chinese fashion art to the world, and helping the global fashion industry better understand the unique charm of the integration of Chinese tradition and modernity.